Holland America Line - Ryndam

Fast Facts

Vessel: Ryndam

Cruise Line: Holland America Line

Star Rating: 4 Star

Tonnage: 55,451

Max Passenger Capacity: 1627

Entered Service: November 1994

Description: Ryndam is one of a series of four almost identical ships, the others being Maasdam, Statendam and Veendam. Accommodation ranges from small interior (no view) cabins to a large penthouse suite. All televisions carry CNN and TNT.

In terms of entertainment, the Vermeer Showlounge spans two decks, with banquette seating on both main and upper levels. Travel The World's starting price for a 10-day cruise along the Mexican Riviera is $1769.

For further information or bookings contact Travel The World: (02) 8296 7077 or visit: www.traveltheworld.com.au

Ryndam

In anticipation of Holland America Line's Statendam coming to Australia this year, Cruise Passenger reviews its identical twin Ryndam on the Mexican Riviera.

It's early morning and I'm pounding the Ryndam's planks in the wake of a determined group of fitness walkers. We've just anchored off the small port of Zihuatanejo on the Mexican Riviera but the walkers aren't distracted by the arc of gleaming sand and the fringing palms. For them, fitness comes first. But not everyone is so dedicated.

Like the large lumbering woman I'm about to overtake. As I draw abreast she turns and mutters breathlessly to me. "God this is some hard work." When I nod understandingly she continues. "I bet my husband I could lose five pounds on this trip and if I do he's gonna bankroll another cruise to Alaska. I'm Babs by the way."

I introduce myself, then call "good luck" as I stride on, musing that trying to lose weight on a cruise is cruelly masochistic. Suddenly a hackneyed one-liner pops up in my mind and makes me grin. It goes: "When you go on a cruise you start out as a passenger and end up as cargo." But you don't necessarily have to add flab.

However, you'll need steely discipline to resist the temptation to graze all day. On the luxury Ryndam, for example, you can begin the day with a 6am breakfast and still be chomping in the Lido restaurant at midnight. Moreover, from a cuisine point of view, recent enhancements have resulted in even greater satisfaction.

Let me explain. Ryndam was the first Holland America Line (HAL) ship to undergo a multi-million dollar upgrade, under HAL's Signature of Excellence banner. Completed late last year, these initiatives span dining and cuisine, accommodation, service, destinations and excursions, educational programs, on-board activities and the kids centre - Club HAL.

After chatting to some of the 1260 passengers on my recent cruise, it's clear Ryndam's "Signature" benefits are widely appreciated. For starters, every cabin has undergone enhancements. In my revamped stateroom there were two new "heavenly" single beds twinned together (I felt as if I was sleeping on clouds), bathrobes, a new flat-screen TV and DVD player plus full cabin and eat-in services around-the-clock. The stateroom had a window, compact ensuite, adequate wardrobe space and a safe.

For more upmarket accommodation, the very spacious deluxe Verandah suites on the Navigation Deck are truly superb. When I visited one, the chatty occupant was getting ready to throw a party. At 11am! "Join us for champagne and make your day," she bubbled gaily. She had a large balcony for entertaining, two singles converted into a "heavenly king", a double sofa-bed, panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows, a fridge and large bathroom. Guests on this deck have exclusive use of the nearby Neptune lounge where their personal concierge is on-tap for every whim.

Ryndam dining options include three restaurants - the Lido, Rotterdam and Pinnacle - and for snackers there's the outdoor Terrace Grill and a Tacos Bar by the main pool.

The buffet-style Lido opens early for brekky and closes at midnight after the late night snack, with diners enjoying its casual atmosphere and variety. Waiting time is minimal and the dessert counter features a seriously popular ice cream bar that's open much of the day.

The main onboard restaurant is the stylish Rotterdam where I ate most of my evening meals. Service is commendable, cuisine is well-presented and sensibly-portioned and it offers a choice of four sitting times.

For a more intimate and sophisticated dining experience try the very polished Pinnacle, which replaces a former video arcade. Dedicated to quality food and wine from the Pacific North West, it has moody lighting, classy table settings and attentive service. A surcharge of US$10-$20 applies for lunch and dinner respectively.

To be sure, there were some monumental eaters on board who could undoubtedly down two or three rib-eye steaks without blinking. But generally speaking, exquisite moderation reigned in all departments on Ryndam, with the passenger profile largely comprising mature age couples with a sprinkling of younger folk, some singles and a few families.

Overall, passengers were North Americans, extrovert, friendly and willing to participate in the plethora of shipboard activities such as trivia, karaoke, walk-a-mile, detox for seniors, tennis, bingo, gym and exercise classes, reflexology, polished nightly revues and shows in the Vermeer theatre, expert lectures on Mexican culture and edifying culinary arts classes in the Wajang Theatre which also screens movies.

Many doing their own thing ended up in the new Explorations Caf which operates in conjunction with the New York Times and is located on the Upper Promenade Deck. My favourite deck, I loved strolling by its sparkling cabinets of antiques, nautical paintings and mostly Dutch-orientated fine art. At times I felt I was in a stately home rather than on board a ship.

Back to the Explorations Cafe. It's a cosy educational and communications centre fronted by a cafe serving top coffee and snacks. It has linking rooms with computer and Internet nooks, writing tables, audio listening posts, a large wall-mounted flat screen, crosswords and puzzles and an extensive library. You can also tap directly into the NYT's website.

Not far away is the Casino, the plush Explorers Lounge and Ocean Bar, the latter very popular with couples for pre/post dinner drinks and dancing. Sadly, the little Piano Bar just never seemed to captivate many people.

As the weather was hot, the main pool on the Lido deck attracted sunseekers and swimmers most of the day. There's also a smaller one on the deck below. If the weather is inclement, the sliding glass roof over the main pool can be closed.

Normally, pools and kids go hand in hand. But kids were invisible. And as there wasn't a specific kids-only swimming pool I wondered if they'd been bribed to stay in their cabins. So I asked one of the ever-smiling Filipino stewards who along with ever-smiling Indonesians comprise the almost 600-strong crew. "Go to Club HAL sir," he advised.

I found it aft, then banged on the door to The Loft, which was designed for 13-17-year-olds. It opened a few centimetres. Then a voice hissed: "Go away, you've got wrinkles." I pushed inside to confront a group of giggling teens and an adult called Amy, a qualified kid-care professional who seemed to think she was in charge.

The kids reckoned The Loft was "cool". "It's our own space and there's lots to do," they said. Conceived as a New York artist's loft, it's got Internet, a big sofa, DVDs and spunky dcor. Above, up a spiral staircase, is the Oasis, also devoted to teens. It highlights a mini-pool and waterfall, chat chairs, hammocks and plastic palms. Club HAL also offers supervised kid-friendly club rooms for eight to 12 and three to seven-year-olds. Diversions include books, video, board and electronic games.

One day, checking out on-shore excursions, I observed that kids and adults had a wide choice of excursions in all five ports of call. Most popular is the tour to see the legendary cliff divers of Acapulco but Puerto Vallarta - the picturesque port which sprang to fame via the Taylor/Burton romance during filming of The Night of the Iguana - is also hot.

When we docked at Puerto Vallarta I toured the old town and then dropped into a bar for a chilled Corona. Suddenly Babs and a tall, lean, slightly bowed guy weighed down by heavy gold chains loomed before me. "Hi," beamed Babs. "This is my husband, Ed. No matter what he eats he's always the same. I could kill him." She ordered two sodas and a Panadol. "Ed's got a headache and a sore neck and wants to go back to the ship for a massage." I figured Ed would feel much better if he unclipped a couple of kilos of gold chains from around his neck. But I didn't tell him. However, he did inspire me to check out the Ryndam's Greenhouse Spa and Salon.

Later, chaperoned by beauty therapist Michaela, I toured the remodelled Greenhouse. "Ever since the upgrade we've been flat out," she said. I saw cosy treatment rooms for seaweed body wraps and other therapies, a couples' massage room and a thermal suite with steam rooms, Jacuzzi and heated ceramic beds.

Any noticeable trends? "Oh yes," enthused Michaela. "Our Romantic Couples package combined with the thermal suite is very popular." I tried to imagine Babs and Ed cocooned in seaweed but was interrupted by Michaela suggesting I might enjoy a massage with hot volcanic rocks. Why not indeed.

Written by Don Townshend - Issue 19 Autumn 2005