Eastern Mediterranean
The Eastern Mediterranean, long renowned for its "special light", is perfect for cruising. You'll find coastal highlights crammed into an area packed with history.
The coast of the Eastern Mediterranean is like a dress circle with a perfect overview of history. It extends from the Pharaohs and pyramids of Egypt to Lebanon's Byblos from which the Bible takes its name. It includes modern Istanbul, which was ancient Constantinople, and the islands and peninsulas of Greece, birthplace of democracy. For cruise passengers, shore excursions are likely to lead to places best known from books, films and legends.
But none of the destinations in this part of the world is locked in the dusty pages of history. The Greek Islands have held a special place in the world's consciousness as the perfect escape - a theme that has held true from Homer's Odyssey to Shirley Valentine. It's as if the Greeks have spent the last two millennia perfecting outdoor dining and island resorts. A warm summer night in a perfect location can be followed by arrival the next morning in a destination just as impressive. The distances here are not vast. While Greece has been a favourite for decades, Turkey has spent much of the past decade as the fastest-growing tourist destination on earth. The islands and coastal villages are just as picturesque and they still have that wonderful atmosphere of being only recently discovered. Istanbul, once the centre of the Catholic Empire, is a showcase created at the point where Europe and Asia meet.
Lebanon was once known as the "Paris of the East", where jetsetters could water-ski in the morning and snow-ski in the afternoon. Only since the civil war and its ramifications finally concluded a few years ago has Lebanon started to return to its former glory. And visitors are finding the new Lebanon as appealing as ever. To the south, Egypt remains one of the world's great travel destinations, where history is inextricably woven into the fabric of life.
And in the middle of it all are the islands - Crete and Corfu, Mykonos and Santorini, Rhodes and Delos: the very names are evocative. Travel by ship is essential to explore the best of the Mediterranean - and you'll be arriving as visitors have for thousands of years. Summer is the peak season here but the summer is long, warm and dry and so extends well into September. No matter where you travel around the bays and islands of this part of the world, it will be a holiday of wonderful, long-lasting memories.
Piraeus
Piraeus has been the port for Athens since classical times and it was fortified at the time of the Persian Wars. It remains Greece's main port and it is here that the island ferries depart and the thriving yacht industry revolves. However, Piraeus is now effectively a suburb of Athens and the infinitely greater attractions of the capital are likely to keep Piraeus as a departure point. Athens is only 10 kilometres away and whether your enthusiasm is for long, vine-shaded taverna lunches or the wonders of antiquity, it will leave you satisfied.
Istanbul
One of the world's great gateway cities, Istanbul stands at the point where Asia meets Europe. In fact, the city of over seven million people straddles the Bosphorus, with the western suburbs being in Europe and the eastern ones in Asia. The city has been the capital of empires for many centuries and it has some sublime monuments to match its status. It has also been a trading town forever and its enthusiasm for a deal hasn't faded. The economic heart of modern Turkey, Istanbul has developed a lot recently and is well worth a visit.
Mykonos
The gleaming white cubist vision that is Mykonos is the jewel in the crown of the Greek islands. Although it has a reputation for its outrageous nightlife, by day the main township of Mykonos (permanent population 6000) is simply beautiful. Twisting narrow streets that suddenly emerge on a perfect waterfront vista, quaint shops and the sun beating down on outdoor tavernas are part of the charm. Traditional windmills overlook the village. But it's the whitewashed perfection of the town as a single entity that makes it unforgettable.
Venice
Many cities stand by the sea or overlook it, but only Venice incorporates water as its lifeblood. Indeed, Venice's role as a cruise port almost feels like cheating because by the time you have arrived in the city, you've left roads and the everyday world behind. The cathedral and St Mark's Square are impressive, but Venice is mainly a place where you discover the roles a boat can assume when cars have been largely banished. Of course it's overpriced and full of tourists but we're all here because the city is wonderfully, outrageously impossible.
Santorini
Whether Santorini really was the lost continent of Atlantis or not, it is a spectacular port and destination. When the volcano exploded around 1510 BC, it left just the rim of the original cone jutting above the water. As you sail into the caldera, there's a very steep climb by cable car and donkey to Fira, the town perched picturesquely on the rim. Just about everywhere in town has a view in one of the most impressive destinations on earth.
Alexandria
This city on the coast of Egypt about three hours from Cairo takes its name from its founder, Alexander the Great. It's a long, thin city covering some 20 kilometres of shoreline and is a popular summer escape for Cairo residents. Compulsory advance reading should be Laurence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet, but the city and atmosphere the book captures is long gone. Rosetta and El Alamein are nearby, and the city itself rewards those who look beneath the high-rise facade.
Super shore excursions
Thousands of years of history provide myriad opportunities for shore excursions throughout the Eastern Mediterranean. Here's a sample.
Beirut
Grottos, the home of the alphabet and the impressively vibrant, redeveloped city of Beirut all feature on this city tour.
Cruise line: Silversea Cruises
Duration: 8 hours
Mykonos-Delos
A boat trip across to the extensive ruins of Delos takes you to the heart of the Cyclades and the legendary birthplace of Apollo.
Cruiseline: Celebrity Cruises
Duration: 4 hours
Corfu
A palace and monastery, a hilltop village and the old city - plus lunch - provide a good overview of this beguiling island.
Cruise line: Princess Cruises
Duration: 8.5 hours
Rhodes
A walking tour of the old town and a coach tour beyond gives a fine introduction to the Knights of St John who developed Rhodes.
Cruise line: Seabourn Cruise Line
Duration: 3 hours
Istanbul
The highlights of Istanbul are the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Grand Bazaar with some 5000 shops.
Cruise line: Radisson Seven Seas Cruises
Duration: 5 hours
Santorini
A tour of the remarkable excavated city of Acrotiri and the archaeological museum plus time in Fira town is a very rewarding trip.
Cruise line: Silversea Cruises
Duration: 3 hours
Pick of the ships
Discovery
At 20,186 tons, Discovery slips into the medium-size category for Discovery World Cruises. Large enough to provide all the luxuries of larger ships, yet nimble enough to reach some of the more exclusive places around the world, she is as comfortable sailing the Pacific as she is mastering the waters of the Antarctic. Recently refurbished (2001-2003), this German-built ship has a passenger capacity of 750 and a crew of 315. The designers have placed such emphasis on space that they included an all-weather sunroof that retracts and disappears, leaving the pool and tables ready for an al fresco lunch. In late September 2006, Discovery will offer voyages through the Mediterranean. Prices start at $6085 per person, including flights.
Grand Princess
Grand Princess, built in Italy and launched in 1998, is a large vessel of 108,800 tons and can carry up to 3100 passengers. Everything is on a large scale, with 1100 crew, five restaurants and 1300 cabins over 13 decks. It is 290 metres in length and twice around the deck equals a kilometre so bring walking shoes. In May 2006, the vessel will undertake 12-day voyages departing from and returning to Italy but spending much of her time around the Greek islands with calls into Turkey. All but one day of the voyage has port calls and destinations include Naples, Santorini, Rhodes, Kusadasi, Mykonos, Corfu and Dubrovnik. Prices start $2853 per person, cruise only.
Regatta
Regatta is the flagship of the Oceania Cruises fleet and offers every luxury you expect from a cruise ship. Built in 1998 and refurbished as recently as 2003, Regatta displaces 30,200 tons and offers four restaurants, eight lounges and bars, and a world-class fitness centre and spa. About 400 professionally trained crew are on call for the 684 guests. Regatta will cruise the Mediterranean in April 2006, firstly from Athens to Istanbul on a 10-day voyage. Prices start at just $5626 per person, including flights.
Norwegian Jewel
Norwegian Jewel is the most recent of Norwegian Cruise Line's vessels. The 92,000-ton ship was only launched in August 2005 and is a sister ship to Norwegian Dawn and Norwegian Star. It has 1188 cabins for 2380 passengers with 10 restaurants to choose from. Accommodation options include Garden Villas and Courtyard Villas as well as less salubrious cabins well suited to families. In September 2006 Jewel will be conducting 12-day voyages between Istanbul to Barcelona. Prices start at $3084 per person, cruise only.
Galaxy
Since it was founded in 1989, Celebrity Cruises has held a great reputation for food. Galaxy, launched in 1996, maintains that reputation, particularly in the main restaurant where menus are designed by celebrated chefMichel Roux. This is a large ship of 77,713 tons and capacity for 1870 passengers served by 909 crew. Celebrity prides itself on its art collection. The d%E9cor on Galaxy is also impressive. The Hemisphere lounge provides an excellent observation lounge to watch the world go by. From May to October 2006, Galaxy will be conducting a series of voyages into the Eastern Mediterranean beginning and finishing at Civitavecchia, the port for Rome. It has stops at Mykonos, Rhodes, Santorini, Istanbul and Naples. Prices start at $2000 per person, cruise only.
Written by David McGonigal, Issue 22 Summer 2005-2006